@SeraphisCain Thanks - there is a gamelist there, but the titles on it are not the ones affected by the issue. There are only a handful of titles and there's no metadata defined. A red herring, I'm afraid.

I appreciate your help, but I'm ready to give up. I don't think it's going to get worked out.

Thanks anyway.

The Super Famicom shows up as a separate system in the carousel but the ROMs are actually stored within a subdirectory of the SNES ROMs...

@MrPrecise There are several forks from the orignal repo. But I can not advise which of the forks is the best maintained (as I do not use it actively), maybe someone else of the community here can provide a hint which fork works the best with a current RetroPie/ES.

@nounours You'll be looking for continuity from the traces on the cart pcb. You'll also have to desolder chips or remove them from the circuit by scratching out the traces or they'll interfere. You need a clear trace or the USB stick will be hard to read.

Look at the pic of my cart. Traces go from the front of the cart to the back and to the front again. Try and find the 4 shortest traces for less interference. Thats what the multimeter will do to make your life easier. If it beeps from one end to the other then it should work.

There are solder points very near to the cart pins too. You can use those but you must use the same pins for all the carts, of course. Depending on the cart, those might be the best to use. Here is an example. 4 short traces. Then the traces are scratched out from the back out so they're cut off from the rest of the circuit for less interefence.

0_1500651011975_20160708_233847.jpg

@ruckage nicely done and good find with the shorter cable - I'm gonna pick one of those up for myself.

@backstander
It's the layout of most PS3/4 fighting stick (including Hori).
But Retroarch has a native option to switch to

Y X R1 R2 B A L1 L2

Very useful for street fighter like controls :)

@Sinister
After you try to launch a Super Famicom game, what is in this file?
/dev/shm/runcommand.log

Hopefully this will give us a clue as to what is happening.

@groviar, did this process end up working to your satisfaction? I've been wanting to do the same thing for a while but my minor experiments with it didn't pan out. This thread is the only thing I can find that covers the topic sufficiently.

@Yamt The only thing you need to watch out for with those ili9431 screens is the pcb overhang at the ends. If you measure the distance from the end of the screen to the start of the buttons, you will see what i mean. There are ways round this of course, you can unsolder the pins and use cables to free up some space, also the screen is attached to the PCB with 2 strips of tape. once these are detached, you can actually place the screen and PCB separately (although they are still attached by a ribbon cable). For the final trick, if unsolder the sd card socket, and carefully follow the lines on the PCB, you can actually chop away at least half of the board, making it easier to fit inside the case

@Morph-X said in Pi3 Super Famicom Build:

This is a great build! I especially like the fact that you managed to squeeze everything in while still maintaining the cartridge eject function. Very nicely done!

Thank you.

I feel as though you could have done a slightly better job with the ports in the back, it looks a bit rough compared to the rest. But overall this is an impressive build!

I agree, I'm surprise I was able to kept it in one piece with the few slip up making it.
It was better for me to just leave it be then lose any more integrity with the plastic.

@billyh Please don't break a known working SNES just for a Pi project. There are millions of ones that are inoperable.

I used a Mausberry tied to the stock SNES power switch.